We have indeed heard tell of the splendor of warrior Danes in days gone by, of all kinds of that nation, and of how their high-born men achieved deeds of valor. ~ Anon, Beowolf
When many of us think of Norsemen or Vikings thoughts come to our minds of fearless warriors from Scandinavia in their decorated dragon long boats , crashing through the cold Northern sea waters to fall on settlements, monasteries, and even Paris, France, to conquer and gain booty.
Who says you can't mix a little business with a whole lot of pleasure? In Denmark that was an an easy proposition for me to do. In the 1980s I spent some time with friends on Copenhagen's island of Zealand, the town of Roskilde in particular.
This was fortunate as concerns any telling of Norsemen, as in 1962 five Viking ships were discovered in the Skuldelev harbour next to Roskilde. They had been purposely sunk over a thousand years ago to block access to Roskilde's fjord. So long a period in the mud had left these scuttled boats in decent condition for future generations to view and wonder on..
When many of us think of Norsemen or Vikings thoughts come to our minds of fearless warriors from Scandinavia in their decorated dragon long boats , crashing through the cold Northern sea waters to fall on settlements, monasteries, and even Paris, France, to conquer and gain booty.
Who says you can't mix a little business with a whole lot of pleasure? In Denmark that was an an easy proposition for me to do. In the 1980s I spent some time with friends on Copenhagen's island of Zealand, the town of Roskilde in particular.
This was fortunate as concerns any telling of Norsemen, as in 1962 five Viking ships were discovered in the Skuldelev harbour next to Roskilde. They had been purposely sunk over a thousand years ago to block access to Roskilde's fjord. So long a period in the mud had left these scuttled boats in decent condition for future generations to view and wonder on..
Viking runes near Roskilde, Denmark
The first stone upright runes apparently appeared in Denmark around the 1st or 2nd centuries CE. They are still to this day largely undecipherable and must be taken more subjectively with intrigue than anything else. Although we do know that they were often inscribed and raised as tributes to loved ones, comrades and mighty chieftains. Some are more intimate, like the ones etched inside the great passageway of Maes in Scotland some 4,000 years ago with things like "Ingigerth is the most beautiful of all women" and more enigmatically "It is true what I say, that treasure was carried off in the course of three nights."
Kurt and Eva, two of the finest friends ever. Back in the 1980s I had the good fortune to spend a week with the two friends at left, Kurt and Eva. My deep platonic love for these people, their children and friends and their countrymen in general, grew immeasurably during my two week stay in Denmark.
The Danish people are in my opinion among the world's finest in so many ways that a mere article can scarce describe them all. I decided to spend one week with the friends and then travel on to spots like Odense (of Hans Christian Anderson fame, for one thing) and specifically, Denmark's oldest town, Ribe, on Denmark's western North Sea coast.
The Danish people are in my opinion among the world's finest in so many ways that a mere article can scarce describe them all. I decided to spend one week with the friends and then travel on to spots like Odense (of Hans Christian Anderson fame, for one thing) and specifically, Denmark's oldest town, Ribe, on Denmark's western North Sea coast.
Another friend bearing a gift of potatoes and a Danish gal-pal-friend, perhaps?
An Odense and Iron Age Denmark stop on
the way to Historic Ribe
Odense was a great stop on the way to Ribe but I'm afraid some of its best pictures have been misplaced over the years. One of the first sights I saw on arriving there was this archaeological dig. You can even see a human skull in the foreground. This city of Hans Christian Anderson's residence certainly lived up to its charm, despite the skull. Edvard Erikson's Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen, based on Anderson's fairy tale, is enchanting but really quite small from what might be expected, but seems fitting nonetheless. Odense is definitely a place to visit for any trip to Denmark my friends. If not mistaken, it's also the country's second largest town after clean, enchanting, wonderful Copenhagen.
On arriving next on the peninsula of Jutland, not far from destination Ribe, there was this most interesting Iron Age reconstructed village - however, welcome reader, I'm not sure this village was on Jutland as it could have been near Odense, before the Jutland peninsula. In any case, the goat head on a sharpened spike of wood looks out over some very pretty Danish countryside. The lady reenactor said the village and house she was in were from around 2,000 years ago. She was very dedicated and knowledgeable about the era and its ways and implements. Those are bone pins holding her shawl and sleeves together by the way. Speaking of ways, it's time for our ride into Ribe now.
On arriving next on the peninsula of Jutland, not far from destination Ribe, there was this most interesting Iron Age reconstructed village - however, welcome reader, I'm not sure this village was on Jutland as it could have been near Odense, before the Jutland peninsula. In any case, the goat head on a sharpened spike of wood looks out over some very pretty Danish countryside. The lady reenactor said the village and house she was in were from around 2,000 years ago. She was very dedicated and knowledgeable about the era and its ways and implements. Those are bone pins holding her shawl and sleeves together by the way. Speaking of ways, it's time for our ride into Ribe now.
Historic downtown Ribe
Ribe is not only Denmark's oldest town, but for a thousand years it was the country's leading harbor which of course meant many a Viking voyage originated from the place. Archaeological finds have traces of settlement going back to the early eighth century. Craftsmen from these times made pottery, shoes, combs, tools and jewelery, just to name several items produced by these "Dark Age" Scandinavians. Somehow "dark" in any respect bar their warring, perhaps, seems the wrong word for these amazing and intelligent folk and their ferocious, far-ranging oceanic warriors in their fantastically built ships.
The Norsemen were the last Europeans to accept Catholicism from Aachen emperors and/or Rome, too. There is a resurgence of the old beliefs, or at least an interest in them at the present time in places like Europe and North America. With respect, but with some fun as well; Thor, Odin, Freya, and the other Scandinavian gods must surely be pleased with these developments, one might imagine. Some serious researchers are even suggesting nowadays that there may be something more to these gods than mere myths or allegory.
The Norsemen were the last Europeans to accept Catholicism from Aachen emperors and/or Rome, too. There is a resurgence of the old beliefs, or at least an interest in them at the present time in places like Europe and North America. With respect, but with some fun as well; Thor, Odin, Freya, and the other Scandinavian gods must surely be pleased with these developments, one might imagine. Some serious researchers are even suggesting nowadays that there may be something more to these gods than mere myths or allegory.
The North Sea
Before riding into Ribe proper I just had to see the North Sea. I'd read so much about in books. My friends it must be said this was the most desolate, cold and windy (the trip was in August) ocean, sea, or large body of water I'd ever seen and felt physically; and could only admire the Vikings traversing across it to the British Isles, Continental Europe, and yes, perhaps even as far as the middle of North America. That is if the famed, and to my mind proven, authenticity of the Middle Age writing on the Kensington runestone, found in the roots of a felled Minnesota tree in the 1890s, is real.
If so it pre-dates the appearance in the area by permanent European settlers by almost 500 hundred years. There are other possible examples of evidence about Vikings in Oklahoma, and writer/friend Randy Godwin may seem to solve a very intriguing question about an historical happening that occurred among the Native Americans in these areas, around this time, in the recent comments section of this story.
What reasons brought the Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish Vikings into world history was the seaborne attack on the Church of St Cuthbert on the islet of Lindisfarne in Northumbria, England. Those reasons were many: One being the emergence around this time of elites whose royal dynasties made the advancement of other men increasingly hard to come by. Another cause may have been over-fishing by the Scandinavians beginning around the 5th century or so. Hence, these men's eventual embarking on dangerous sea journeys to find riches and the sustenance of the bountiful seas once again.
Many of course stayed in the conquered parts of northern England, Scotland, and Normandy, France. The city of York, England's Viking archaeological finds are simply amazing. Of course these sea voyagers also colonized places like Iceland, and less permanently ( know believed because of climate change) Greenland and North America's Newfoundland, initially called Vinland by the voyagers.
If so it pre-dates the appearance in the area by permanent European settlers by almost 500 hundred years. There are other possible examples of evidence about Vikings in Oklahoma, and writer/friend Randy Godwin may seem to solve a very intriguing question about an historical happening that occurred among the Native Americans in these areas, around this time, in the recent comments section of this story.
What reasons brought the Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish Vikings into world history was the seaborne attack on the Church of St Cuthbert on the islet of Lindisfarne in Northumbria, England. Those reasons were many: One being the emergence around this time of elites whose royal dynasties made the advancement of other men increasingly hard to come by. Another cause may have been over-fishing by the Scandinavians beginning around the 5th century or so. Hence, these men's eventual embarking on dangerous sea journeys to find riches and the sustenance of the bountiful seas once again.
Many of course stayed in the conquered parts of northern England, Scotland, and Normandy, France. The city of York, England's Viking archaeological finds are simply amazing. Of course these sea voyagers also colonized places like Iceland, and less permanently ( know believed because of climate change) Greenland and North America's Newfoundland, initially called Vinland by the voyagers.
To the left is a picture from my hotel room of the rooftops of downtown Ribe. Most unfortunately, on Sept. the 3rd, 1580, a terrible fire destroyed a large area of the ancient town. But, to an American, this was still quite a look at the past. Our oldest buildings and city, are, of course, St Augustine, Florida, with Jamestown, Virginia, coming next in 1607 after the failed attempt at colonization on Roanoke Island, North Carolina in the 1580s, that led to the famous "lost colony" mystery. As for the first, St. Augustine, it came into being about a decade and a half before the burnt parts of Ribe were being rebuilt.
At the risk of admitting some naughtiness, on waking the first morning, I noticed on looking out the window to across the street, a young and attractive woman, maybe on the second floor of the building she was in, outside her room on the balcony. She was stark naked, walking about, talking on the telephone. This was a sight you just didn't see often in America (at least not where I came from) and I innocently admired the lady's charms until her internal radar zeroed in on me and she looked up, saw the gazer, and then just sauntered on back inside.
To right is a picture of Danish school students doing some cleaning of the old buildings with toothbrushes. Obviously done for fun or perhaps a dare, it shows the spirit of the Danish people. They're good sports and like to have fun and laugh. Ribe was a great enjoyment to walk around that day. I noticed many languages on this mission of discovery and it's certainly no surprise. Yes, Ribe is a must see for any visit to Denmark my friends. I could hardly wait for the fall of night and what it might bring.
At the risk of admitting some naughtiness, on waking the first morning, I noticed on looking out the window to across the street, a young and attractive woman, maybe on the second floor of the building she was in, outside her room on the balcony. She was stark naked, walking about, talking on the telephone. This was a sight you just didn't see often in America (at least not where I came from) and I innocently admired the lady's charms until her internal radar zeroed in on me and she looked up, saw the gazer, and then just sauntered on back inside.
To right is a picture of Danish school students doing some cleaning of the old buildings with toothbrushes. Obviously done for fun or perhaps a dare, it shows the spirit of the Danish people. They're good sports and like to have fun and laugh. Ribe was a great enjoyment to walk around that day. I noticed many languages on this mission of discovery and it's certainly no surprise. Yes, Ribe is a must see for any visit to Denmark my friends. I could hardly wait for the fall of night and what it might bring.
I wanted to take the night tour of the oldest part of the ancient town with the historical watchman to the left in the pics above as our guide. Before that little excursion, though, I checked out a very nice bar-restaurant and settled into a booth to down some excellent Carlsburg suds. It wasn't long before the two English girls in the right side picture walked by and accepted my offer of some conversation and a get-to-know each other. They were on tour from their jobs was the first thing I found out about them.
It was a great time we had talking about things. I don't believe they'd ever met a young American male before and had a lot of questions about the U.S. at the time. Reagan and some of the American government's policies were not a fave with them, that's for sure. The blonde young lady talked more than her red-headed friend who mainly just smiled despite some missing front teeth, and, it didn't take me long to discover something rather remarkable about her more engaging companion.
At some point, almost from the start, really, I noticed she looked very similar to a young woman I knew back in Carolina with the surname of Jackson. As the conversations continued I also noticed, and was amazed a bit, to discover her personality was very much like the Carolinian friends too. They say we all have a doppelganger somewhere in the world and that night convinced me of it!
Around ten o'clock or so the tour began and to be truthful about it the Carlsburgs had done their job a little too well, so I got to talking to some folks and can't remember all the details of the walk, but it was a lot of fun and interesting nonetheless. The night watchman guide did a lot of singing which I forgot what for until looking it up. He was announcing bedtime for Ribe's folk. Ah, the folly's of youth! Anyway, there were a good many well-preserved historical places and buildings. We probably saw the well known old town hall, which according to wiki was erected in 1496, obviously surviving the 16th century fire, and bought by the city for use as the town hall in the early 18th century.
It was a great time we had talking about things. I don't believe they'd ever met a young American male before and had a lot of questions about the U.S. at the time. Reagan and some of the American government's policies were not a fave with them, that's for sure. The blonde young lady talked more than her red-headed friend who mainly just smiled despite some missing front teeth, and, it didn't take me long to discover something rather remarkable about her more engaging companion.
At some point, almost from the start, really, I noticed she looked very similar to a young woman I knew back in Carolina with the surname of Jackson. As the conversations continued I also noticed, and was amazed a bit, to discover her personality was very much like the Carolinian friends too. They say we all have a doppelganger somewhere in the world and that night convinced me of it!
Around ten o'clock or so the tour began and to be truthful about it the Carlsburgs had done their job a little too well, so I got to talking to some folks and can't remember all the details of the walk, but it was a lot of fun and interesting nonetheless. The night watchman guide did a lot of singing which I forgot what for until looking it up. He was announcing bedtime for Ribe's folk. Ah, the folly's of youth! Anyway, there were a good many well-preserved historical places and buildings. We probably saw the well known old town hall, which according to wiki was erected in 1496, obviously surviving the 16th century fire, and bought by the city for use as the town hall in the early 18th century.
The morning after an evening of hygge ( a word kind of hard to translate in English but perhaps a happy time with schnapps among friends will suit in this case) with kolde bord cheese and bread...and of course, another cup of mead!
The next stop after Ribe and then Flensburg, Germany, was the Danish isle of Als, close to the European continent. This was the business part of the trip ( no cloak-and-dagger stuff, I assure you dear reader; in fact, far from it) which was a bit of an odd but important mission that included some tools, a large spoon, and jars; all of which were used to collect soil samples. The Sonderburg town and its environs were the main area of interest and did the Danes in this off the beaten tourist path look funny at the crazy fellow bent over shoveling soil into jars. It was slightly embarrassing, no, on second thought, it was really embarrassing with my rear-end hiked up in the air while digging dirt into glass with that humongous spoon!
In conclusion to this brief trip through some of lower Denmark and introducing you to some of those friends, let me say that I fell in eternal love with the people of this remarkable nation, some of the brightest and friendliest in the world. And they even liked Americans! I do hope and pray they still do. Time may separate friends in a physical sense, but what's felt deep down and in the memory, lasts forever if one is fortunate enough to always keep the latter intact, and the heart will hopefully take care of itself in the grand plan of the Universe.
And to end this article perhaps an old saying from "the happiest people on earth", known to the Danes by heart, is fitting:
Hvad udad tabes, skal indad vindes. ( What was lost without will be found within.)
In conclusion to this brief trip through some of lower Denmark and introducing you to some of those friends, let me say that I fell in eternal love with the people of this remarkable nation, some of the brightest and friendliest in the world. And they even liked Americans! I do hope and pray they still do. Time may separate friends in a physical sense, but what's felt deep down and in the memory, lasts forever if one is fortunate enough to always keep the latter intact, and the heart will hopefully take care of itself in the grand plan of the Universe.
And to end this article perhaps an old saying from "the happiest people on earth", known to the Danes by heart, is fitting:
Hvad udad tabes, skal indad vindes. ( What was lost without will be found within.)
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